Owen PalmerBy Owen Palmer

Updated November 2026

Learning how to install laminate flooring is one of the most achievable weekend projects a homeowner can take on. With a clean subfloor, a few basic tools, and patience with the layout, you can get a floating floor that looks professional and holds up for years. This guide walks through the steps we followed in our own living room, with the timing and pitfalls we ran into along the way.

Prepare the Room and Subfloor

Start by moving out furniture and pulling up baseboards or shoe molding so the planks can slide underneath later. Sweep and vacuum the subfloor, then check it for high spots and gaps. Laminate needs a surface that is flat within about 3/16 inch over 10 feet. Sand down any bumps and fill low spots with a patching compound.

Shopping for one? See our guide: 7 Best Laminate Flooring Installation Tools for DIY Renovators (2026).

Next, let the planks acclimate. Stack the boxes flat in the room for at least 48 hours so the material matches the room’s temperature and humidity. Skipping this step is one of the most common causes of gaps appearing after install.

Lay the Underlayment and Plan the Layout

Roll out the underlayment perpendicular to the direction of the planks, overlapping seams by about 4 inches and taping them. Many laminate products come with an attached pad, so check the packaging before buying extra. Measure the room’s width and length, then plan your first row so the last row is at least 2 inches wide. If the math leaves a sliver, trim the first row to balance the layout.

Leave a 1/4 inch expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Plastic spacers hold this gap while the floor settles. Your gap will be hidden by the baseboards or shoe molding later.

Click the Planks Together

Install the First Row

Begin in the left corner of the room with the tongue side of the plank facing the wall. Lock the end joints by angling the new plank about 20 degrees and lowering it flat. Tap the seams gently with a tapping block and a rubber mallet. Keep the first row straight by checking it against a string line or a long level every few boards.

Work Across the Room

For the second and later rows, lock the long edge first, then angle and drop the end joint. Stagger the end joints by at least 12 inches from the row above so the seams do not line up. Cut the last plank in each row with a fine-tooth saw or a laminate cutter, and use the offcut to start the next row if it is at least 12 inches long.

Finish the Edges and Transitions

Once the field is down, remove the spacers and install the baseboards or quarter-round over the expansion gap. Do not nail through the floor. Attach moldings to the wall so the floor can float. Use transition strips at doorways and where the laminate meets another surface. For detailed guidance, see How to Install Flooring Transition Strips and Moldings.

Checklist and Tools You Need

  1. Laminate planks with a click-lock system, plus extra for waste (about 10 percent)
  2. Foam or rubber underlayment with a vapor barrier if the subfloor is concrete
  3. Tapping block, pull bar, and rubber mallet
  4. Spacers for the 1/4 inch expansion gap
  5. Circular or jigsaw with a fine-tooth blade, and a laminate cutter
  6. Tape measure, pencil, speed square, and a 4-foot level

If you want a complete set of tools in one purchase, compare options in Laminate Flooring Installation Kits: What to Buy and How to Use Them.

A tapping block protects the tongue and groove edges while you lock each seam, and it is worth having for every row. View on Amazon

A pull bar lets you close the final row against the wall without damaging the planks. View on Amazon

Spacers keep the expansion gap even along every wall, which prevents buckling later. View on Amazon

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Installing before the planks acclimate, which leads to gaps or buckling.
  • Skipping the expansion gap, which lets the floor push against the walls as it expands.
  • Lining up end joints in neighboring rows, which weakens the floor visually and structurally.
  • Nailing or screwing through the planks, which blocks the floor’s natural movement.
  • Ignoring a bumpy subfloor, which causes hollow spots and clicks under foot.

FAQ

Can I install laminate flooring over tile?

Often yes, if the tile is level and firmly bonded. Grout lines can be uneven, so you may need a leveling compound first. Check your manufacturer’s instructions before you start.

How long does a laminate floor take to install?

A typical room of around 200 square feet can take a first-time installer a full day or two, including prep and trim. Experienced DIYers often finish faster.

Do I need to remove the baseboards?

In most cases yes, because the planks need room to slide under them. You can undercut door casings with a flush-cut saw instead of removing them.

Conclusion

With proper prep, acclimation, and a consistent expansion gap, learning how to install laminate flooring is well within reach for a patient DIYer. Take your time on the first row, since it sets the alignment for everything that follows. Consult a flooring professional if your subfloor has structural issues or moisture problems.

Ready to choose one?

Owen Palmer

About Owen Palmer

Owen Palmer is part of our editorial team and reviews and edits our DIY home renovation guides, checking product details against manufacturer specifications and owner feedback.